The History of Arabica's Spread (Part 2) – The History of Bourbon's Spread

The story of Bourbon coffee is a fascinating tale of travel, mistaken identity, and botanical evolution. While many coffee lovers assume this classic Coffea arabica variety originated on the island that shares its name, its true roots trace back to the ancient coffee gardens of Yemen. Join me as we explore the incredible journey of Bourbon coffee as it spread across the globe.

The True Origin: From Yemen to an Island

 

Contrary to popular belief, the story of Bourbon doesn't start on Bourbon Island (today known as Réunion Island). In fact, a native coffee variety already existed there, discovered by the French in 1711. This plant, known as Mauritiana, produced brown, bitter cherries that didn't appeal to the market's palate.

To establish a more desirable coffee crop, the French imported coffee seeds directly from Yemen on three separate occasions in 1708, 1715, and 1718. It was the batch from 1715 that finally began to thrive on the island. These new coffee trees were distinctly different from the Typica variety that was also circulating the globe at the time. Their beans were rounder than Typica's elongated beans, and the leaves at the top of the tree were green, unlike Typica's bronze-tipped leaves. Because of these characteristics and their new home, the French named this variety Bourbon.

Further evidence points to Yemen as the true source. In 1732, the British East India Company transported Mocha seeds from Yemen to the island of St. Helena. The British never sourced coffee from Bourbon Island, confirming that this genetic line came directly from Yemen. Coffee on St. Helena was largely ignored until 1815, when Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled there, bringing newfound attention and fame to the island's unique coffee.

Westward Expansion: Bourbon Conquers the Americas

Before Bourbon's arrival, the Typica variety was the dominant coffee plant in Central and South America. By 1727, Typica had been planted in Brazil, but its limited genetic diversity (originating from a single "mother plant" in Europe) made it highly susceptible to disease and pests.

Seeking a hardier and more productive alternative, Brazil imported Bourbon from Bourbon Island around 1860. This was Bourbon's first introduction to the Americas. It quickly proved superior to the lower-yielding Typica and spread rapidly from Brazil northward into other parts of South and Central America.

Once established, Bourbon began to naturally mutate, giving rise to many new and important varieties that are famous today, including:

• Yellow Bourbon

• Pink Bourbon

• Caturra

• Pacas

Landing on the African Continent

 

French missionaries, known as the Holy Ghost Fathers, were instrumental in spreading the Bourbon variety across Africa. Following the establishment of a mission on Bourbon Island in 1841, they carried Bourbon seeds with them as they expanded their work.

• 1859: A mission was established in Zanzibar.

• 1862: The Zanzibar mission expanded to Bagamoyo on the coast of Tanzania.

• 1862: The St. Augustine mission was founded in Kenya's Kikuyu region.

Through this network, Bourbon seeds from Réunion Island were planted across East Africa. In 1893, French and Scottish missionaries formally introduced Bourbon to Kenya, and in 1898, it was brought to the Kilimanjaro region of Tanzania.

In the 1930s, agricultural scientists at Scott Laboratories (SL) in Kenya began working with the Bourbon variety. Their goal was to develop cultivars that were both high-yielding and resistant to disease. This research led to the creation of the celebrated SL-28 and SL-34 varieties. SL-28, in particular, has a complex heritage, blending the genetics of the French Missionary Bourbon with heirloom varieties from Yemen, including Mocha and Typica.

 

A Unique Mutation: The Pointed Bourbon (Laurina)

 

In 1810, a farmer on Bourbon Island named Leroy discovered a unique, dwarf-like coffee tree. Its cherries were distinctly pointed, a stark contrast to the round cherries of its parent Bourbon plant. It wasn't until the 20th century that scientists discovered its most remarkable trait: Laurina, or "Pointed Bourbon," contains only half the caffeine of a typical Coffea arabica bean.

Due to its low yield and fragile nature, the Laurina variety nearly went extinct. However, thanks to dedicated revival efforts by French and Japanese researchers between 1999 and 2007, it was saved. Since 2000, it has been successfully cultivated in countries like Colombia and El Salvador, cherished for its unique cup profile and low caffeine content.